Shirt Anatomy

Shirt Yoke

The dress shirt yoke is the panel of fabric on the back located below the collar.  It covers the entire shoulder length of your dress shirt from left to right.  The split yoke is often taken as a sign of a quality dress shirt.  The split yoke is comprised of two pieces of fabric sewn together, joined in the middle, to create the yoke.

There is still much ongoing debate on the merits of having a split yoke or unsplit yoke.  You may prefer the yoke is simply for style reasons. You may belong to the group of men who argue that the split yoke is better for a number of reasons other than simply style.  In the case of a striped dress shirt, it is said that a split yoke will make your dress shirt more stylish by letting the diagonal lines meet when sewn together at an angle.  It is also suggested that this will improve the fit of your dress shirt.  As having a split yoke often requires more work, the split yoke is often associated with more expensive and quality dress shirts.

All Michelozzo formal shirts from our ready to wear collection and made-to-measure service features the split yoke.

Shirt Fabrics

Oxford Weave Shirt

With a history dating back to the 1800s, the oxford weave dress shirt is considered to be the most simple and straightforward, when compared to other weaves like the herringbone.  The oxford dress shirt was historically made of 100% cotton, but nowadays, there are many fabrics which uses this pattern. There are numerous blends such as cotton and polyester, and cotton and rayon available in the oxford weave.

So if you’re looking for something that is simple and not too expensive, the oxford dress shirt is for you.  It is also quite durable and will hold up well after repetitive washes. The oxford dress shirt is a classic and can be worn for almost any occasion, guaranteeing you absolute comfort and brilliant performance. You be able to look your best when sporting an oxford dress shirt as it is neither too formal nor too casual.  The oxford dress shirt is a time honored classic.  A safe bet.

Basically, the oxford weave involves the following:  the weft, a yarn that is drawn over and subsequently under the warp or vertical yarn. The weft is comprised of a pair of fine yarns. In the oxford weave, the warp is a heavier yarn than the weft and when weaved, leaves to in a weave with a basket like pattern.

Shirt Fabrics

Pure Cotton Shirt

For many dress shirt aficionados and dress shirt purists, the 100% pure cotton dress shirt is the ultimate dress shirt.  A pure cotton dress shirt means just that, the dress shirt fabric is made of 100% natural cotton.  This means there no other fibers whether natural or synthetic has been blended into the weave. 

Cotton is one of the most important plant in human history, having been cultivated for its fluffy cotton fiber since ancient time.  Cotton has been an important commodity in the United States, India and Africa for centuries and has had a profound influence on the historical, political and society of many nations.

The cotton fiber is firstly spun into a thread or yarn which are then used to manufacture cotton fabric which are subsequently made into clothing.  The cotton fabric’s soft and breathable properties makes it the ideal material to be used in making dress shirts for men.  It’s breathable characteristic allows for perspiration and helps you stay cool and comfortable in hot conditions.  It is therefore not surprising that the world’s first dress shirt was made of pure cotton.

Shirt Types

Button Down Shirt

A Button Down Dress Shirt is basically the same as any other dress shirt, except for one important difference.  Its name comes from the buttonhole located at the tip of each collar point, which are fastened to the shirt.  The Button Down Dress Shirt was introduced 1896 to serve the needs of polo players.

If you’re looking for a more relaxed or softer alternative to the more corporate and formal collar types, the button down dress shirt will do the trick.  This probably explains why you would probably prefer to wear it in casual settings, rather than at formal events.  The button down dress shirt can effortlessly gives you a simple and easy look.  The button down dress shirts are ideal for casual outings.  Always remember to fasten the collar buttons.  Don’t let it flutter around as doing so tend to give off a rather flimsy appearance.

Shirt Fabrics

Dobby Weave Shirt

The dobby fabric is manufactured using the unique dobby weave.  In essence, when the dobby fabric is manufactured, the weaves of the fabric are raised creating more textured feel, rather than a flat or smooth.  This means that the dobby fabric does not have a smooth finish, and is less easily wrinkled.  The dobby weave is often used for creating checkered dress shirts and striped dress shirts.  The dobby weave is also used to create all sorts of patterns for dress shirts.  Shirts made of a dobby weave material therefore have more texture than a plain weave shirt.

Although the dobby dress shirt share certain similarities with the jacquard dress shirt, the dobby dress shirt differs from the jacquard dress shirt in the sense that dobby fabric is less intricate and woven faster.  The advantage of the dobby fabric is that it can be woven using a combination of materials, which means that you can get the best out of all its component fibers.  Depending on the fibers used in the weave, the dobby fabric can be of high quality and durability.  In addition, the dobby fabric can be dyed in a vast array of colors, meaning dobby dress shirts can boast a richer color range.  This is probably why the fashion world absolutely love the dobby fabric.  

Shirt Colors

White Shirt

Every man must own at least one white dress shirt.  As a matter of fact, the white dress shirt is the best selling dress shirt in the world, and you’re bound to have one white dress shirt in your wardrobe.  The plain white dress is basic but it is also an absolute classic that you cannot do without.  The reason is the plain white dress shirt is simply so versatile.  It can go from super formal to super casual.  You can wear your white dress shirt anywhere and be confident that you look great doing so.  Regardless of whether you are hanging out with your buddies, working in the office, meeting clients or attending a wedding, you can never go wrong with your classic plain white dress shirt.  Your quality white dress shirt will prove to be a great investment for years to come so take good care of it.

Your white dress shirt being neutral in color can work with literally any color you can think off.  It goes well together with any outfit.  You can match your white dress shirt with any color suit, sweater, pants or shorts.   If you’re unsure what you should wear for any event, then pop on your white dress shirt because you’re guaranteed to look just perfect in it.

Shirt Fabrics

Herringbone Weave Shirt

The herringbone dress shirt’s name comes from the herringbone like pattern on the fabric.  The herringbone is not a weave, but a pattern type.  The herringbone pattern fall under the same family as the twill.  However, the herringbone boast a very distinct v-shaped pattern on the fabric – very much like a the herring fish bone skeleton.  The herringbone pattern is created by alternating the direction of the twill weave.  If you look carefully, you will notice that the traditional twill weave are not parallel, with all the striations heading toward a single direction.  A careful inspection of the traditional twill weave will reveal that the diagonals are not only parallel but their striations are all going in one direction.

The herringbone pattern is often favored for suits fabrics.  When it comes to dress shirts, the herringbone is particularly spectacular when applied on solid colored dress shirts.

On closer inspection, the herringbone is noticeably different from the traditional oxford shirt.  The herringbone pattern gives the impression of finer and perfect construction. The herringbone fabric appears thicker when compared to the oxford fabric dress shirt.  The herringbone will feel much smoother and more dressy than the oxford shirt.  These detailed features of a dress shirt show your taste for fine detail and give you a more stylish appearance.

Shirt Colors

Red Dress Shirt

To say red is a bold color is an understatement.  No other color draws more attention and opinions than a red dress shirt. The reasons is the color red is often associated with strong traits like determination and passion.  Having said this, if you choose a red with more subtle tone or correct shade, it can work to perfection. You’ll be sure to turn heads and get attention.  It is recommended that your red dress shirt should only see light of day in a non-corporate setting.

Shirt Colors

Grey Dress Shirt

The grey dress shirt is growing in popularity and you can often spot them on the trendy man in nightclubs in New York and London.  The reason for this is the grey dress shirt can enhance your sense of youth and instantly give you a sophisticated look.

The great thing about the grey dress shirt is, like the brown dress shirt, it is a relatively neutral tone color.  This means that it is super versatile and can be easily be accessorized with a colorful outfit or accessory to give you a dramatic, eye catching look.  Best of all, the grey dress shirt is a shirt for all seasons.  It looks awesome on you whether in spring, summer, autumn or winter.

Although by its nature, the color grey may seem rather boring, the key to wearing a grey dress shirt is to spice it up with the right outfit and accessories.  The grey dress shirt gives you a clean base and allow you the freedom to experiment with vivid colored necktie, jackets and shoes.  You may like to have the inner collar of their grey dress shirt in a burst of color, giving a playful display of your sophistication and relaxed attitude.

Shirt Types

Checkered Dress Shirt

If you like checkered dress shirts, you’ll be glad to know that checkered dress shirts comes in a vast array of patterns and colors.  Terms like tartan and plaid refer to types of checkered dress shirts.  Checkered dress shirts are just the thing for your casual wardrobe.  Checkered shirts are not generally intended to be formal shirts.  If you love checkered shirts, you can still pull it off in the office provided the checks you pick are smaller and more subtle, for an understated look.  It’s worthwhile noting that your office attire should be nice and simple with understated elegance. In recent times, the Gingham shirts which has a distinctive pattern type have been experiencing a revival. The Gingham is not a weave but a pattern type. Gingham shirts are made from fabric which have been woven to create a checkered effect.  The weave involves overlapping solid colored thick stripes over each other.  The Gingham design can be found in broadcloth or twill weave, although the former is more popular of Gingham patterns. The black Gingham pattern dress shirts are a much loved autumn classic.  The only downside of the Gingham dress shirt is they are more prone to wrinkles.

Shirt Types

Stripe Dress Shirt

A classic fashion item that every man should have is a striped dress shirt.  Why?  Because it is one of the most versatile and multifunctional garments you can own, and you can wear it almost anywhere.  It’ll look great in the office and be just as a looking awesome on night of partying with your best pals. 

The design and color of the stripes will dramatically affect the feel of your striped dress shirt.  For the office, it’s safer to go for simple, thin stripes which will give a more understated and formal appearance.  Bold, wide stripes have a more fun and party feel and is best reserved for out of office hours exploits.